"All claims, guarantees and product specifications are provided by the manufacturer or vendor. Birdhouse Tales cannot be held responsible for these claims, guarantees or specifications" (ad) “As An Amazon Associate, I Earn From Qualifying Purchases.” (Paid Link)
DIY Birdhouse Gardening: Learn How to Grow Gourds for Birdhouses
If you’ve ever admired the charm of a natural birdhouse hanging in a backyard, chances are it was made from a gourd. Learning how to grow gourds for birdhouses is a fun, rewarding way to combine gardening with wildlife support. Not only do gourds add visual appeal to your garden while growing, but once dried and cleaned, they can be transformed into durable, eco-friendly homes for birds like wrens, chickadees, and purple martins.
This guide will walk you through every step of the process—from selecting the right seeds and preparing your soil to drying and crafting the gourds into birdhouses. Whether you’re a beginner gardener or a seasoned DIYer, growing gourds for birdhouses is a low-cost, sustainable project that brings life and beauty to your outdoor space.
Why Grow Gourds for Birdhouses?
If you’re a gardener with a soft spot for wildlife—or simply love combining beauty with utility—growing gourds for birdhouses is a rewarding project that connects you directly with nature. With just a handful of seeds and a little patience, you can transform a climbing vine into a natural, eco-friendly home for birds that will brighten your backyard and benefit the environment.
Benefits for Birds and Backyard Ecosystems
Birdhouses made from gourds offer ideal nesting spots for a variety of cavity-nesting birds like wrens, chickadees, and purple martins. These birds help naturally control pests by feeding on insects, reducing the need for chemical pesticides. The presence of birdhouses also encourages biodiversity, turning your garden into a thriving micro-ecosystem.
Unlike plastic or metal birdhouses, dried gourds provide a breathable, insulating structure. Their organic material better mimics tree cavities, making them more attractive and comfortable for nesting birds.
Aesthetic and Functional Appeal
Gourd birdhouses add rustic charm and artistic flair to your garden. Each gourd has a unique shape and size, allowing for creative designs—from natural, raw finishes to painted and carved works of art. They blend seamlessly into natural landscapes and can also be customized to suit any garden style, whether minimalist, traditional, or whimsical.
Beyond the visual appeal, growing your own gourds gives you full control over how they are cultivated, harvested, and repurposed. It’s a sustainable, low-cost way to support wildlife, reduce waste, and engage in a deeply satisfying garden-to-habitat craft.
Best Gourd Varieties for Birdhouses
When it comes to crafting birdhouses from gourds, not all varieties are created equal. The ideal gourd should be large enough to hollow out, have a sturdy shell once dried, and a shape that can accommodate a bird cavity. Let’s take a closer look at the best types for this purpose.
Bottle Gourds (Lagenaria siceraria)
Also known as birdhouse gourds, calabash gourds, or martin gourds, these are the most popular and practical choice for birdhouse crafting. Their round base and narrow neck form a natural cavity shape, making them ideal for both birds and crafters. Once cured, the shell hardens into a wood-like material that holds up well to weather when properly treated.
These gourds typically grow between 8 to 14 inches tall and provide ample room for birds like purple martins and wrens. You can also easily drill entry holes and ventilation ports into them without splitting the shell.
Dipper Gourds and Other Hollowing Varieties
Dipper gourds have long necks and bulbous bases that resemble ladles or spoons. While slightly trickier to use due to their shape, they make for eye-catching and unique birdhouses when hung upside down or on an angle. Their larger bodies provide good nesting space, and the long necks allow creative entry-hole positioning or decorative carving.
Other notable varieties include:
Apple gourds – round and squat, suitable for smaller birds
Cannonball gourds – nearly spherical and great for evenly shaped birdhouses
Kettle gourds – a broader-bottomed variety similar to bottle gourds
Where to Buy Quality Gourd Seeds
To ensure strong vines and high-yield harvests, it’s essential to purchase high-quality seeds from reliable sources. Look for seeds labeled “birdhouse gourd” or Lagenaria siceraria, and pay attention to reviews or notes about germination rates. Trusted sources include:
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds
Seed Savers Exchange
Johnny’s Selected Seeds
Amazon (be sure to check seller reviews)
Local garden centers with heirloom or hard-shelled gourd options
Opt for non-GMO, untreated seeds if possible, especially if you care about sustainability and environmental impact.
Planning and Preparing Your Garden Space
Before you plant your first seed, taking the time to plan and prepare your garden space is essential for a successful gourd harvest. Gourds are vigorous, fast-growing vines that require ample room, sunlight, and structural support. Getting the setup right from the start will save you time and help you grow healthy, shapely gourds that are perfect for birdhouses.
Ideal Soil Type and Sunlight Needs
Gourds thrive in well-drained, nutrient-rich soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH (around 6.0 to 6.8). Loamy soil is ideal, but they can also grow in sandy or clay soils as long as proper drainage is ensured. Before planting, mix in compost or well-rotted manure to enrich the soil and improve its structure.
Sunlight is another crucial factor. Gourds require full sun—at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily—to produce strong vines and fully mature fruits. Shady areas or overcast regions may lead to poor growth or misshapen gourds.
Trellis or Ground Planting: Which Is Better?
You can grow gourds either on the ground or vertically using a trellis. Both methods work, but they serve different purposes:
Trellis Growing (Recommended for Birdhouse Gourds): Vertical growth keeps gourds off the soil, helping them maintain a clean, blemish-free shape. It also improves air circulation, reduces the risk of pests and rot, and saves space in smaller gardens. Use a sturdy trellis, arbor, or fence—these vines get heavy!
Ground Planting: Growing on the ground allows the vines to spread naturally, which may lead to larger fruits. However, gourds are more likely to develop flat spots, rot where they touch moist soil, or suffer from insect damage. If growing on the ground, place mulch or straw under developing gourds for protection.
Spacing and Layout Tips
Gourd vines are sprawling and vigorous. Plan for:
4 to 6 feet between plants if growing on a trellis
8 to 10 feet between rows for ground planting
Allow at least 100 square feet per plant for unrestricted ground growth
Orient trellises north-to-south if possible, for even sun exposure
Additionally, ensure easy access to water, compost, and room to walk between rows or trellises for maintenance and harvest. Group gourds away from other low-growing vegetables so the vines don’t overwhelm them.
How to Plant Gourd Seeds
Getting your gourds off to a strong start is crucial for a productive growing season. Whether you’re sowing directly into your garden soil or starting seeds indoors, timing and technique make all the difference in gourd health and yield.
When and How to Sow Seeds
Gourds are warm-season crops, so timing is key.
Direct sowing outdoors should happen 2–3 weeks after your last expected frost date, once the soil has warmed to at least 65–70°F (18–21°C).
If you’re starting indoors, sow seeds about 4–6 weeks before your transplant date (which should be after the last frost).
To plant seeds:
Soak them in warm water for 12–24 hours before planting to soften the seed coat and improve germination.
Plant seeds 1 inch deep in the soil.
Place 2–3 seeds per hill or mound, then thin to the strongest seedling after sprouting.
Starting Indoors vs Direct Sowing
Both methods work well, but each has pros and cons.
✅ Starting Indoors:
Gives you a head start in short growing seasons.
Protects seedlings from early pests and erratic weather.
Use biodegradable pots (like peat pots) to reduce transplant shock.
Tip: Gourds dislike root disturbance, so transplant gently. Harden off seedlings outdoors for 7–10 days before planting in the ground.
✅ Direct Sowing:
Easier and less time-consuming.
Ideal in warm climates with long growing seasons.
Less chance of transplant shock.
Note: Direct-sown plants may take slightly longer to mature, so ensure they have a full growing season of 100–140 days before your first fall frost.
Tips for Seed Germination and Soil Temperature
Gourd seeds can be slow to germinate, often taking 7 to 14 days under ideal conditions. Here’s how to boost success:
Keep soil consistently warm—use black plastic mulch or row covers to raise soil temperature early in the season.
Water lightly but consistently; soil should be moist, not soggy.
Avoid planting in cold or waterlogged soil—it delays germination and increases risk of rot.
Don’t plant too deep—1 inch is ideal.
Once germinated, the young seedlings will rapidly develop into fast-growing vines, ready to take over your trellis or garden patch.
Caring for Gourd Plants
Once your gourd seedlings are in the ground and growing, consistent care is key to getting large, healthy gourds ready for crafting into birdhouses. With proper watering, feeding, vine management, and pest control, your plants will thrive throughout the growing season.
Watering Schedule and Fertilization
Gourds need consistent moisture—especially during flowering and fruit development.
💧 Watering Tips:
Water deeply once or twice a week, depending on rainfall. Aim for 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week.
Focus on watering at the base of the plant to prevent fungal diseases.
Mulch around the base to help retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Avoid overwatering, especially early in the season. Gourds prefer moist but well-drained soil. Soggy roots can lead to rot and stunted growth.
🌱 Fertilizing Tips:
Before planting, amend soil with compost or aged manure.
Once vines are 12–18 inches long, apply a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10.
When flowering begins, switch to a phosphorus-rich fertilizer (like 5-10-10) to promote blooms and fruiting.
Over-fertilization—especially too much nitrogen—can cause lush vine growth at the expense of fruit production. Follow label directions and feed sparingly.
Training Vines and Trellis Maintenance
Gourd vines grow aggressively and can quickly overtake surrounding plants or structures. Training them early improves air circulation, sun exposure, and helps develop straighter gourds for crafting.
How to Train the Vines:
Guide vines upward using garden twine, soft ties, or plastic clips.
Prune excess lateral shoots (side branches) once main vines are established to focus energy on fruit production.
Space gourds evenly on trellises to allow airflow and prevent crowding.
Use a sturdy, tall trellis or archway, as gourd vines can easily grow 20–30 feet long and become heavy with fruit. Reinforce with strong stakes or fencing if needed.
Pest and Disease Management
Gourd plants can be affected by several pests and diseases, especially in warm, humid climates.
Common Pests:
Cucumber beetles – chew leaves and transmit bacterial wilt.
Squash bugs – suck plant sap and weaken vines.
Aphids – cluster under leaves and spread disease.
Cutworms – damage young seedlings at soil level.
🛠 Natural Pest Control Tips:
Use floating row covers early in the season.
Handpick visible bugs and destroy eggs under leaves.
Apply neem oil or insecticidal soap as needed.
Common Diseases:
Powdery mildew – shows as white patches on leaves.
Downy mildew – causes yellow and brown leaf spots.
Anthracnose – leads to dark sunken spots on leaves and stems.
Bacterial wilt – transmitted by beetles and causes sudden wilting.
🛡 Disease Prevention Tips:
Water early in the day to let foliage dry.
Avoid overhead watering.
Rotate crops each year and avoid planting gourds in the same spot for at least 2–3 seasons.
Healthy vines mean better-shaped gourds, higher yield, and fewer issues during curing. With a little attention, your gourd patch can become a beautiful and low-maintenance part of your garden.
Pollination and Flowering
Pollination is a vital phase in growing gourds, especially if you want to ensure strong fruit development for crafting birdhouses later. Understanding how gourd flowers work—and how to support the pollination process—can mean the difference between a healthy harvest and empty vines.
Gourd Pollination Basics (Male vs Female Flowers)
Gourd plants produce separate male and female flowers on the same vine—a reproductive strategy known as monoecious.
Male flowers appear first (usually within 4–6 weeks of planting) and grow on long, slender stems. These serve primarily to attract pollinators.
Female flowers arrive a bit later and can be identified by the tiny, bulbous baby gourd at the base of the flower, which develops into the fruit once pollinated.
Pollination occurs when pollen from a male flower is transferred to a female flower, typically by bees or other insects. Without this, the tiny fruit on the female flower will dry up and fall off.
How to Encourage Bees and Hand Pollinate If Needed
Pollination success depends largely on the presence of pollinators, especially bees. If you notice lots of flowers but no developing gourds, pollination may be the issue.
Avoid using pesticides or insecticides, especially during flowering.
Provide a shallow dish of water and flat stones for bees to land on and drink.
Let some weeds like clover grow around your garden—they’re natural bee attractants.
🤲 How to Hand Pollinate Gourds:
If pollinators are scarce, you can hand-pollinate your gourds using a simple method:
Identify a fresh male flower and remove its petals to expose the stamen.
Gently dab the stamen onto the center of a female flower, making sure the pollen contacts the stigma.
Alternatively, use a small paintbrush or cotton swab to transfer pollen between flowers.
Hand pollination is best done in the early morning, when flowers are open and pollen is fresh. Just one successful pollination is usually enough to develop a full-sized gourd.
When and How to Harvest Gourds
Harvesting is one of the most exciting stages of growing gourds—especially when you envision them transforming into beautiful, functional birdhouses. But timing and technique are critical. Harvest too early, and the gourds may rot. Handle them incorrectly, and they could develop mold or crack before you even begin crafting.
Signs Your Gourds Are Ready
Gourds need a long growing season—typically 100 to 140 days—and should remain on the vine as long as possible before harvesting.
Look for these key signs of maturity:
Vine begins to die back and leaves yellow or brown
Skin turns hard and tough to scratch with your fingernail
Color changes from vibrant green to tan, beige, or mottled brown (depending on the variety)
Gourd feels lightweight and hollow when tapped
Never harvest green or soft gourds unless frost threatens. If you must pick them early, they likely won’t cure properly for birdhouse use.
Cutting and Curing the Gourds
When the gourds are fully mature:
Use sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the gourd from the vine.
Leave a 2–3 inch stem attached. This helps prevent rot and makes it easier to hang them later.
Handle gently to avoid bruising or cracking the shell.
After cutting, it’s time to cure the gourds—a slow drying process that hardens the shell and preserves it for use.
Curing Steps:
Wipe the surface gently with a damp cloth to remove dirt (do not soak them).
Place gourds in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area like a shed, attic, or covered porch.
Lay them on a wire rack or screen to allow air circulation on all sides.
Turn them every few days to prevent flat spots and check for soft spots or mold.
Drying Tips to Avoid Mold
Drying takes 1 to 6 months, depending on the size and thickness of the gourd. During this period, the outside will become brown and mottled, while the inside dries and rattles with seeds.
To avoid mold:
Ensure good airflow—do not store in sealed containers or plastic.
Wipe away surface mold with a cloth dipped in a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water.
Discard any gourds that feel soft, collapse, or emit a foul odor—these are rotting internally.
When fully dry, the gourd will be lightweight, hard-shelled, and hollow-sounding. At this point, it’s ready to be transformed into a one-of-a-kind birdhouse.
Cleaning and Preparing Gourds for Birdhouses
Once your gourds are fully dried and cured, it’s time to turn them into safe, attractive homes for birds. This process involves cleaning the exterior, hollowing out the interior, and sealing the surface—ensuring the gourd is both bird-safe and weather-resistant.
Removing Seeds and Pulp
Mark and Drill the Entry Hole:
Choose a hole size suitable for your target bird species (e.g., 1.5″ for chickadees or wrens, 2″ for purple martins).
Drill the entry hole using a hole saw or spade bit.
Also drill a few small holes in the bottom for drainage and one or two near the top for ventilation.
Shake Out the Seeds:
Turn the gourd upside down and shake vigorously to remove loose seeds.
For stubborn pulp, use a long-handled spoon, wire, or coat hanger to scrape the inside.
Soften and Rinse (Optional):
If the inner material is hard, soak the gourd in water for a few hours to loosen it.
Rinse with a mild bleach-water solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water), then let dry thoroughly.
This step is important not just for cleanliness—it also prevents mold, insects, and rot from forming inside the birdhouse.
Sanding and Sealing Techniques
After the interior is cleaned, turn your attention to the outside:
Sanding the Shell:
Use fine-grit sandpaper (120–220 grit) to smooth rough spots, especially around drilled holes and any blemishes.
Remove any flaky skin or mold spots.
Sealing the Gourd:
Apply a clear, non-toxic outdoor sealant or polyurethane to protect the surface from rain and UV damage.
Avoid sealing the inside—it’s better to keep it natural and breathable for birds.
Let the gourd dry for at least 24 hours before hanging.
If you plan to paint the gourd, do this before sealing.
Natural vs Painted Finish
Choosing between a natural or painted finish depends on your aesthetic goals and how you want the birdhouse to blend into your garden.
✅ Natural Finish:
Emphasizes the gourd’s rustic charm
Blends into natural surroundings, which may feel safer for birds
Low-maintenance and easy to reseal each season
🎨 Painted Finish:
Adds color and personality to your garden
Use non-toxic, outdoor acrylic paints
Avoid painting around the entry hole—birds prefer natural interiors
Whichever finish you choose, always apply a final clear topcoat for weather protection. Let the gourd cure fully before hanging to ensure no fumes linger that could harm birds.
Drilling and Hanging: Turning Gourds into Birdhouses
Once your gourd is clean, dried, and sealed, you’re ready for the most exciting part—turning it into a birdhouse! This step requires a bit of precision, as proper hole placement, ventilation, and hanging technique all affect the comfort and safety of the birds you’re hoping to host.
Proper Hole Size and Placement for Different Birds
Each bird species prefers a different entrance hole size. To attract the right birds and keep predators out, use the following guidelines:
Bird Species
Hole Diameter
Height from Bottom
Chickadee
1 1/8 inches
4–6 inches
House Wren
1 inch
4–6 inches
Bluebird
1 1/2 inches
5–6 inches
Purple Martin
2 inches
1–2 inches
Tree Swallow
1 1/2 inches
4–6 inches
Drill the entry hole on the upper third of the gourd’s body, centered to allow enough nesting space below.
Use a hole saw bit or spade bit with a power drill to get clean, accurate openings.
Drainage and Ventilation
To prevent moisture buildup and mold, your birdhouse gourd needs proper airflow and drainage.
Drill 2–4 small holes (1/4 inch) on the bottom of the gourd for drainage.
Add 1–2 ventilation holes near the top or sides (not too close to the entry hole).
Smooth all edges of the holes with sandpaper to avoid injuring birds.
Proper ventilation keeps the interior cooler in summer and reduces condensation, making it a more viable nesting spot.
How to Hang Them Securely
Hanging your gourd birdhouse properly ensures it’s stable, weather-resistant, and safe for nesting birds.
Hanging Methods:
Drill two small holes near the neck of the gourd, about 1/2 inch below the stem, and thread strong wire, twine, or rope through them.
Use the stem itself: If the stem is sturdy, wrap wire tightly around it for hanging. Be sure it’s strong enough to hold the gourd and withstand wind.
For multiple birdhouses, mount a pole with hooks or hang them from a shepherd’s hook in your garden.
Hanging Tips:
Hang birdhouses at 5 to 12 feet high, depending on the bird species.
Choose a location with partial shade to avoid overheating.
Place away from feeders to reduce competition or predator risk.
Clean and re-hang them every year in late winter or early spring.
A well-hung gourd birdhouse can last for years and serve as a natural, inviting shelter for backyard birds—while adding rustic charm to your outdoor space.
Maintaining Your Gourd Birdhouses Over Time
Once you’ve hung your gourd birdhouses, your work isn’t quite done. To keep them safe, functional, and inviting year after year, regular maintenance is essential. Proper seasonal care ensures your birdhouses stay durable and healthy for their feathered occupants.
Cleaning Between Seasons
Each nesting season brings with it leftover nesting materials, droppings, and the potential for parasites. Thorough cleaning not only extends the life of the gourd but also ensures it remains a safe home for future birds.
When to clean:
Late fall or early winter, after the birds have left for the season.
How to clean:
Remove any old nesting material using gloves and a spoon or small brush.
Mix a cleaning solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water.
Scrub the interior and around the entry hole with the solution to disinfect.
Rinse thoroughly with clean water and let it air dry completely before storing or rehanging.
Never use harsh chemical cleaners or soap residues, as these can be harmful to birds.
Inspecting for Cracks or Mildew
As natural materials, gourds can develop cracks, soft spots, or mildew over time—especially when exposed to extreme weather.
Check for cracks, especially near the entry and hanging points. Small cracks can be sealed with wood glue or clear caulk. Larger cracks may require replacement.
Look for mildew or mold, particularly if the gourd was exposed to excess moisture or improperly cured. Wipe with a diluted bleach solution and allow it to dry in the sun.
Test for softness: if the gourd feels spongy or has soft spots, it’s likely rotting inside and should be discarded.
Regular seasonal inspections will help you catch and fix small problems before they worsen.
Re-coating or Repainting Tips
After a season or two outdoors, your gourd birdhouse may lose its finish or show signs of wear. Recoating keeps it weather-resistant and visually appealing.
Lightly sand the outer surface to remove dirt, flaking paint, or old sealant.
Apply a fresh coat of non-toxic outdoor sealant or clear polyurethane.
If repainting, use non-toxic, exterior-grade acrylic paint and avoid painting around the entry hole.
Let the gourd cure for 24–48 hours in a dry, ventilated area before rehanging.
By dedicating a small amount of time each season to maintenance, your gourd birdhouses can last for many years—creating a safe haven for birds and a charming touch for your garden.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Growing Gourds
Even though gourds are relatively easy to grow, a few common mistakes can ruin an otherwise promising crop—especially when your goal is to craft sturdy, long-lasting birdhouses. By being aware of these pitfalls, you can ensure a smoother growing and curing process with better results.
Overwatering
While gourds need consistent moisture, too much water can be just as harmful as too little.
Why it’s a problem:
Overwatering can lead to root rot, powdery mildew, or fungal diseases.
Excess moisture during fruit development may cause misshapen gourds or mold growth on the fruit surface.
How to avoid it:
Water deeply but infrequently—let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings.
Ensure soil has good drainage; raised beds or sandy loam soil work well.
Apply mulch to retain moisture and prevent splash-back, which can spread soil-borne diseases.
Harvesting Too Early
One of the most damaging mistakes is harvesting gourds before they are fully mature.
Why it’s a problem:
Immature gourds have soft shells and high moisture content.
Early-harvested gourds are prone to shriveling, cracking, or rotting during the drying process.
They will not cure properly and are generally unsuitable for long-term use as birdhouses.
How to avoid it:
Wait until the vines begin to die back, and the gourds feel hard and hollow.
A mature gourd’s skin should resist fingernail pressure and develop a dull, tan or mottled finish.
Be patient—many gourds require 120 to 140 days to fully mature on the vine.
Improper Drying or Storage
Curing and storage are where many first-time growers run into trouble.
Why it’s a problem:
Poor ventilation during curing can cause mold, soft spots, and internal rot.
Storing gourds in plastic containers or damp areas traps moisture, leading to decay.
Incomplete drying results in a weak shell that can crack during cleaning or use.
How to avoid it:
Cure gourds in a dry, airy, shaded space—like a garage, shed, or covered porch.
Rotate regularly to prevent pressure points and promote even drying.
Store only fully cured gourds in a cool, dry location with good airflow.
Check on them every few weeks during drying to remove any that begin to rot.
By steering clear of these mistakes and following proper growing and handling methods, you’ll end up with well-shaped, durable gourds perfect for turning into long-lasting birdhouses.
Conclusion: The Joy of Growing and Giving Shelter
Growing gourds for birdhouses is more than just a gardening project—it’s a full-circle journey that blends nature, creativity, and care. From planting your first seed to watching birds nest inside a home you grew with your own hands, the process is deeply rewarding.
Let’s quickly recap:
You start by selecting the right gourd varieties, preparing the ideal growing space, and planting seeds at just the right time.
With regular care—watering, trellising, pollinating—you nurture vines that produce beautiful, hard-shelled gourds.
After harvesting and curing them properly, you clean, drill, and decorate them into functional birdhouses that are safe, eco-friendly, and visually unique.
Whether you go for a natural rustic look or a vibrant painted design, these gourd homes are always appreciated by backyard birds—and they can last for years with simple seasonal maintenance.
Why You Should Try It
You don’t need to be an expert gardener or a skilled woodworker. Just a few seeds, some soil, and a bit of patience will get you started. Plus, it’s a project that families can enjoy together—kids love watching gourds grow and helping decorate birdhouses.
There’s something magical about offering shelter to wildlife using materials you’ve grown yourself. It connects you with the seasons, enhances your garden’s biodiversity, and adds a personal, handmade touch to your outdoor space.
Extra Tip: Gift or Sell Your Gourd Birdhouses
Once you get the hang of it, you’ll likely grow more gourds than you need. Why not turn that abundance into opportunity?
Gift your gourd birdhouses to friends, neighbors, or teachers—they make thoughtful, eco-friendly presents.
Consider selling them at local craft fairs or farmers’ markets—natural birdhouses are always in demand.
Share your process online through gardening blogs, DIY channels, or social media.
In the end, growing gourds for birdhouses is a meaningful way to give back to nature, one handmade shelter at a time. So go ahead—plant a few seeds this season, and let your garden grow into a home for more than just plants.